A Fast-Food Friday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

Gray this morning and the class was at it early!  This panorama (#1) made it look like things were pretty walled up, but when you look at the close-up in #2 you can see Dane Acosta taking off and we're here to tell you that he made it all the way to the end and finished by breaking the tail loose and laying back into the white water.  All of that and the longboarders were on fire!  Seamus Swift, Zach Siegel and Asher Vollom all were looking like contenders.  No wind and it came up and died again all morning.  The sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 64.0º and the water was 68.0º.  It might stay in that range if we could just get some afternoon sun!  Low tide was at 5:16am +2.8' and high tide follows at 11:47am +5.3'.  We have a SSW swell out of 206º at 2.3' and it was 2' to 3' and the lefts were especially great.  Ask Burnsy!  She was rocking the lefts and beside her outstanding bottom turns, she was rail grabbing and getting some speed across the inside break!

Who are these guys (#3) and where in the world are they?  Going through some archival photos and found this one at El Presidente in Cabo with the Professor, the Maharishi and Buck celebrating a kick-ass session at Zippers.  On one especially long ride the Maharishi went all the way to the rock, flew over it and managed to wrap his leash in a half-hitch on the far side.  We had just glassed the board that week and we were all amazed the leash plug held!
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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