Wissenschaft Wednesday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
The sun comes up, the sun goes down, doesn't really matter in party town... So this is either the sunrise or the sunset and like the chair at the first Continental Congress you have to decide which it is. (Ben Franklin decided it was rising.) Don't worry there are no wrong answers...
Chilly this morning at checkout time, running 51.1° as we shuffled to the car. Visibility was 15 miles with partly cloudy skies and the normal haze. Winds were offshore by 5.3kts, but the sea surface persisted in being a bit tacked, from who knows what blow. The water has continued to warm up adding another degree and turning 58.3° at sunrise. High tide was at 10:10am +4.1' and low tide will be at 3:34pm +1.2'. The buoy tells us that there is a SW swell out of 232° at 3.6'. We're calling the resulting waves 3' to 5', poor to fair to almost good.
We saw Kevin "Buffalo" Holmes out again today and he caught a couple of good ones on the Topaz side. On his last wave he turned deep and then sprung a nice bottom turn with a bit of a slingshot-hip-wiggle through a tricky section. You might think that this is most unremarkable, except for the fact that a couple of months ago he had major back surgery. While recovering, an embolism made it's way to his brain and he had a stroke that left him speechless and unable to move. He said it was like being gagged and strapped into a straight-jacket. Given all that, his recovery has been stellar and it's great to see him in the water. It wasn't crowded, since the gallery was spread out and we saw, Don Swift, Little John, Sandy, Lawrence Dank, the Professor, Andrew Staich (who's getting a new blade shaped by José this evening) and a crew of grommets who were ripping the inside to little tiny shreds. The youngest one paddled by and we asked him how old he was. "I'm nine, he said, "but I've been surfing since I was three!" Geez, he looked like his eyes were barely open. We thought he was six...
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
The sun comes up, the sun goes down, doesn't really matter in party town... So this is either the sunrise or the sunset and like the chair at the first Continental Congress you have to decide which it is. (Ben Franklin decided it was rising.) Don't worry there are no wrong answers...
Chilly this morning at checkout time, running 51.1° as we shuffled to the car. Visibility was 15 miles with partly cloudy skies and the normal haze. Winds were offshore by 5.3kts, but the sea surface persisted in being a bit tacked, from who knows what blow. The water has continued to warm up adding another degree and turning 58.3° at sunrise. High tide was at 10:10am +4.1' and low tide will be at 3:34pm +1.2'. The buoy tells us that there is a SW swell out of 232° at 3.6'. We're calling the resulting waves 3' to 5', poor to fair to almost good.
We saw Kevin "Buffalo" Holmes out again today and he caught a couple of good ones on the Topaz side. On his last wave he turned deep and then sprung a nice bottom turn with a bit of a slingshot-hip-wiggle through a tricky section. You might think that this is most unremarkable, except for the fact that a couple of months ago he had major back surgery. While recovering, an embolism made it's way to his brain and he had a stroke that left him speechless and unable to move. He said it was like being gagged and strapped into a straight-jacket. Given all that, his recovery has been stellar and it's great to see him in the water. It wasn't crowded, since the gallery was spread out and we saw, Don Swift, Little John, Sandy, Lawrence Dank, the Professor, Andrew Staich (who's getting a new blade shaped by José this evening) and a crew of grommets who were ripping the inside to little tiny shreds. The youngest one paddled by and we asked him how old he was. "I'm nine, he said, "but I've been surfing since I was three!" Geez, he looked like his eyes were barely open. We thought he was six...
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
