Industrial Revolution Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...   So yesterday we started out on a jungle cruise to a break no one would tell us the name to.  You take a boat through a mangrove swamp for about 7 miles, head down a river and then there you are.  It was like the jungle cruise at Disneyland, except more birds and no hippos and elephants.  Sully would have gone bananas with the birds. We jumped in the river, got sucked out around a rock point and found ourselves in a bay that stretched on for about a mile of sand beach.  This is while paddling to stay stable and keeping watch for schools of fish that would spook and pummel you as they jumped to theoretically avoid you.  Just as we rounded the rocks a manta ray jumped about six feet out of the water.  It was as big as a card table and when it swam around the tips of it´s fins looked like twin sharks swimming.  A guy later told us that he saw one twice as big and when it jumped it looked like a depth charge going off!  The tide was going out so we had to keep paddling to stay on the peak - but when the tide stopped and turned all of a sudden there was no rip and the place settled right down.  Initially head to shoulder high, it looked like the Mexican Ranch, except it was a right.  For about an hour the swell pulsed, got bigger and we got some incredible waves.  Since the place faces east, the normal on-shore wind was OFF-shore.  The water was turquoise and about 80!  You had to decide whether to walk back to the takeoff spot or paddle.  It was so windy that the paddle was usually the best choice because you could work the rip.  But as per usual the novelty of the long waves struck and it was a LONG paddle back - like Saliditas at least...  The whole day was an adventure - we´ll run some photos when we get back... "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."  The Professor!!