Sometimes A Serious Monday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...

I usually try to keep the S & C Report on the lighter side, but while we were on vacation we got some absolutely horrific news.  Our friend, fellow coach and surfing buddy Duncan Avery's daughter Kalea began having headaches and was diagnosed with medullablastoma.  She was scheduled for surgery when Duncan and his wife Nohea, began noticing that their son Noah was walking oddly.  They took him to the doctors and unbelievably, the doctors discovered a mass in almost the same place as that of his sister and of the same type of cancer.  Environment, genetics, virus... does it make any difference?  One child would be devastating, but two are inconceivable!  But if you know Duncan and Nohea, they are in for the fight.  Two more dedicated, caring and tireless parents are not to be found.  But there is hope!  Both the children have now been operated on and had the masses removed.  The doctors are confident that they have removed all of the tumors, but now starts the struggle with chemo and radiation.  If you are so moved, please go to #fightliketheaverys and read about their journey so far.  And should you be further inclined, don't hesitate to donate to their cause.  They are not wealthy people and this is the kind of misfortune that can ruin a family... 

LoLa playing chicken on the north shore (photo credit: Barry Santos)  The chickens are everywhere on most of the islands.  The hurricanes have blown them around and no one has ever bothered to gather them up.  You feed them corn for a week to clean out the worms and stuff they eat from the road and then, "winner, winner, chicken dinner."

Overcast this morning with 10 miles visibility.  Winds were early out of the WSW by 3.2kts and the sea surface had a bit of texture to it.  The air temperature was 63.2 and the water is 67.8.  Low tide is at 6:54am +0.1' and high tide comes up at 1:44pm +3.8'.  We have a SSW swell out  of 193º at 2.6' and it's about half of that and really low tide...  Tomorrow?

#2 Buck, taking in that beautiful Hawaiian water.  And did we mention it was 82º...

#3 Remove your slippers or you in trouble...

✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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