Merry Christmas Friday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

Merry Christmas!  It is a testimony to clean living and incredible luck that you are in such marvelous shape!  Carry on!

From the Bike path at Torrance Beach (#1) to the Pier crossing the Hermosa Alps (#2) there are no waves of which to speak.  So, far from it to bore you with minutiae, we'll direct your attention to Sunday the 27th (#3) and the bump we're seeing approaching the South Bay.  Looks like there's going to be some swell action as well as a wind and rain storm on Monday.

An excerpt from "Santa Saw Me In The Dining Room Mirror."

"...I could tell that he had a flagrant case of rosacea on his nose and cheeks.  It was then that I think he might've spotted my reflection in the dining room mirror.  Damn it!  I had imagined that I was pretty well hidden, but had completely forgotten about the stupid mirror.  But he kept right to his task and honestly I think that he was also a little embarrassed by his skin condition.  I moved ever so slightly and he stopped.  "I know you're there, so either be quiet or come right out and say whatever's on your mind."  I stood up and said, "You didn't touch the cookies and brandy that I left for you."
"Look at these cheeks and the size of my nose!  The dermatologist says that sweets and alcohol only aggravate the condition." he barked.
"Sorry.  It does look merry..."
"Merry!?  It looks like I've been on a two week bender!  Those damned art guys at Coca Cola® started this foolishness.  And what's his name?  Moore?  Clement Moore!  I used to slink around in black slacks and a fashionable black coat.  Never showed the soot.  And sometimes a hat.  A snappy little stingy brim that would stay on in the sleigh.  People got great stuff back then.  Now, it's drek..."
"But people love you!"
"Not so much.  They love the IDEA of me, but who loves a fat old character trailing soot all over the place and eating all those glazed Christmas cookies.  At least YOU left some brandy!"
"And here it is!  Two fingers, just like last year.  Sit down for two seconds!"
"Thanks (slaps back the brandy), but I've got to go.  How about July on Oahu?  The surf should be good on the south side!"
"Yeah, we'd like that!"
"Well, you'll have to improve your bottom turn and jump up quicker.  And be good for cry'n out loud...  I carried you a bit this year."
"Yes sir!"
"Okay, watch this.  Pull my finger.  Go ahead."  So I pulled his finger and he shot up the chimney like a rocket!  I guess it's in the finger.  Whether he touches his nose or you pull it, he just takes off.  Amazing...
🎄

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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