DermaWand Wednesday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
So Monday comes and the Professor is checking out the surf. Even though it's high tide he decides that Topaz has some possibilities. In fact, there are some waves that look pretty good size on the outside, off the jetty. So he paddles out and proceed to have an absolutely horrible session. He looked like someone who had read about surfing, but never actually had done it himself. He had it alone for about a half an hour and then some other folks came out, probably to see first hand if he was okay or just delusional. Trying to resuscitate his reputation he decided he had to take one of those outsides next to the jetty. It began as a nice right, a little bigger than head high, and then it just blew apart on the inside. He dove off. Just before he broke to the surface and covered his head, the board (which had started out behind him) circled around, dove about five feet and then clobbered him in the nose. It looked like he had stepped on a rake. Actually, he looked like an extra in a Danger Boy film. The good news is that yesterday Hermosa was going off and he could finally see around his swollen beak to scored some fine little waves before the tide shut it down.
Clear skies this morning and currently no signs of rain in the air. 15 miles visibility. Winds were offshore by 3.7kts and the sea surface was smooth. The air temperature was a chilly 49.6° and the water was 59.4° at the buoy. We qualify that, because it doesn't seem quite that warm in the surfline. Low tide is at 6:13am +0.8' and high tide is just after lunch at 12:02pm +4.1'. The buoy is reading a west swell out of 276° at 4.3' and we're calling it 3' to 5'.
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
.
So Monday comes and the Professor is checking out the surf. Even though it's high tide he decides that Topaz has some possibilities. In fact, there are some waves that look pretty good size on the outside, off the jetty. So he paddles out and proceed to have an absolutely horrible session. He looked like someone who had read about surfing, but never actually had done it himself. He had it alone for about a half an hour and then some other folks came out, probably to see first hand if he was okay or just delusional. Trying to resuscitate his reputation he decided he had to take one of those outsides next to the jetty. It began as a nice right, a little bigger than head high, and then it just blew apart on the inside. He dove off. Just before he broke to the surface and covered his head, the board (which had started out behind him) circled around, dove about five feet and then clobbered him in the nose. It looked like he had stepped on a rake. Actually, he looked like an extra in a Danger Boy film. The good news is that yesterday Hermosa was going off and he could finally see around his swollen beak to scored some fine little waves before the tide shut it down.
Clear skies this morning and currently no signs of rain in the air. 15 miles visibility. Winds were offshore by 3.7kts and the sea surface was smooth. The air temperature was a chilly 49.6° and the water was 59.4° at the buoy. We qualify that, because it doesn't seem quite that warm in the surfline. Low tide is at 6:13am +0.8' and high tide is just after lunch at 12:02pm +4.1'. The buoy is reading a west swell out of 276° at 4.3' and we're calling it 3' to 5'.
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
.
