Hero Worship Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

Our first shot this morning is of one of our favorite hot young surfers, Corey Kupke.  He rides everything from long boards to elias and everything in between.  Here he's shown in Ché's shaping bay checking out an SUP fin.  The Professor is trying a couple of smaller models on his 9'6".  As soon as there are waves, he might have something to report...

Overcast this morning but clearing early, with 15 miles visibility.  Winds were out of the WSW at 4.5kts at checkout and the sea surface had a definite tack going.  The air temperature was 60.9° and the water is 62.4° (note:  The lifeguards have a posted temp. of 67° at the Hermosa Pier.  Normally we would take that and run with it, but last week they had a temp of 66° posted when they held the pier-to-pier swim and they ended up taking 40 people to the emergency room with symptoms of hypothermia!  Right Wing Fred swam it and won his age group and came in 17th in the next group down.  He had been sketchy about participating, but despite the cold he bulled his way through - Good on ya' Freddy!)  High tide at 11:06am +5.3' and low tide is at 4:48pm +0.9'.  We have a W swell out of 265° true, registering 2.3'.  We're calling it 1' and poor along the southern hook of the Santa Monica Bay or the "Queen's Noose..."

Topic:  Shameless Hero Worship
Yeah, we're guilty as charged.  We were hanging with Ché and Birdie and the crew at Becker/Mangielli this morning, when in walked Lance Carson.  Okay, so maybe 99.9% of the people in the world don't know who Lance Carson is.  Of course they don't know who David Nuuhiwa or Gerry Lopez is either.  Lance Carson, surfed for Jacobs surfboards and was one of the best all-around surfers, noseriders and hellmen the Southbay has ever known.  He owned the tip before Nuuhiwa came up from Hawaii.  You could argue endlessly, whether or not he or Dora was the best at Malibu (of course you couldn't argue that with Johnnie Fain.)  So, totally abandoning any semblance of cool, we asked him to sign our shirt.  He was really humble about it, but we insisted.  Then Ché, whipped out his camera and we took this shot of the three of us.  This is the kind of shot that ends up in a coffee table book with the following caption:  "L to R:  Lance Carson, Unknown, José Barahona"...

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

Popular posts from this blog

Duke Of Wellington Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Wasting Away In Margariitaville Saturday Surf & Culture Report

Not Forest Hills Friday Surf & Culture Report