Functionally Illiterate Friday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
Yes, we're back and it was a fine trip up to Boise and over to the coast. We'll share some shots and comments next week.
Let's start out this morning with a shot of Dave Dubravsky and Jose picking up Dave's new stick. Here's what Dave had to say after his first go-out:
Well, I went to O'side this morning, and it was really choppy, small, and no parking because of a 9 man boat paddle race. So we went down to Leucadia and tried Beacons, and it was unrideable. So... we thought we'd check Tamaracks befor heading home, and it looked small, and really blown out, but kind of ledgy, so what the heck. Time to get the Tiburon wet.
Paddling out, I noticed that it was more work to paddle.. and not as easy to duck dive as I thought... but that's ok. First wave... the thing felt like a skateboard... but it closed out immediately so no turning.
Next wave had a little should for about 40 feet before it closed out. I got to turn mid-face, two little pumps... and up to the top for the closeout. And I realized that...
I FREAKIN' LOVE THIS BOARD!!!!!!! Jose is my board shaping hero!!!!!!!!!! It did everything I hoped... turned well, felt loose, I dropped in on one really late, pretty vertical, no problem.... AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME!!!!! I was totally stoked, even though the waves were pretty crappy!!!!!!
Frank, please let Jose know that the board is completely awesome.... exactly what I was hoping for. :) :) :)
(Apparently he liked it! Ed.)
Under mostly clear skies we have 22 miles visibility. It looks like it's going to be sunny and warm today. Winds are offshore by 3.5kts and the sea surface is smooth. The air temp is 67.5° and the water is 64.6° out at the buoy and around 68° closer to shore. High tide is at 7:41am +3.4' and low tide will follow at 10:17am +3.3', so don't expect that it's going to drain things out. The buoy is reading a 3.6' swell out of 190°, which is pretty straight south. That's why Buck is reporting close to head-high waves at California St., Ventura and it's 1' to 2' here in the South Bay.
Our second photo this morning is something we hodged off the news this morning, showing Palos Verdes in flames. We could hear the choppers into the night as they dropped water on the flames. We probably were also hearing the news helicopters as they covered the grisly action. Here's hoping that everyone up in the P.V. Alps is safe and not BBQ'd.
Finally as a taster for next week's run down of our trip north, this is a shot of Voodoo Doughnuts signature pastry. It's a "Bacon Maple Bar" and we were told that it has been the single most significant item in the conversion of the Jews. The coffee wasn't bad either!
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
Yes, we're back and it was a fine trip up to Boise and over to the coast. We'll share some shots and comments next week.
Let's start out this morning with a shot of Dave Dubravsky and Jose picking up Dave's new stick. Here's what Dave had to say after his first go-out:
Well, I went to O'side this morning, and it was really choppy, small, and no parking because of a 9 man boat paddle race. So we went down to Leucadia and tried Beacons, and it was unrideable. So... we thought we'd check Tamaracks befor heading home, and it looked small, and really blown out, but kind of ledgy, so what the heck. Time to get the Tiburon wet.
Paddling out, I noticed that it was more work to paddle.. and not as easy to duck dive as I thought... but that's ok. First wave... the thing felt like a skateboard... but it closed out immediately so no turning.
Next wave had a little should for about 40 feet before it closed out. I got to turn mid-face, two little pumps... and up to the top for the closeout. And I realized that...
I FREAKIN' LOVE THIS BOARD!!!!!!! Jose is my board shaping hero!!!!!!!!!! It did everything I hoped... turned well, felt loose, I dropped in on one really late, pretty vertical, no problem.... AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME!!!!! I was totally stoked, even though the waves were pretty crappy!!!!!!
Frank, please let Jose know that the board is completely awesome.... exactly what I was hoping for. :) :) :)
(Apparently he liked it! Ed.)
Under mostly clear skies we have 22 miles visibility. It looks like it's going to be sunny and warm today. Winds are offshore by 3.5kts and the sea surface is smooth. The air temp is 67.5° and the water is 64.6° out at the buoy and around 68° closer to shore. High tide is at 7:41am +3.4' and low tide will follow at 10:17am +3.3', so don't expect that it's going to drain things out. The buoy is reading a 3.6' swell out of 190°, which is pretty straight south. That's why Buck is reporting close to head-high waves at California St., Ventura and it's 1' to 2' here in the South Bay.
Our second photo this morning is something we hodged off the news this morning, showing Palos Verdes in flames. We could hear the choppers into the night as they dropped water on the flames. We probably were also hearing the news helicopters as they covered the grisly action. Here's hoping that everyone up in the P.V. Alps is safe and not BBQ'd.
Finally as a taster for next week's run down of our trip north, this is a shot of Voodoo Doughnuts signature pastry. It's a "Bacon Maple Bar" and we were told that it has been the single most significant item in the conversion of the Jews. The coffee wasn't bad either!
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
