It's All About Me Monday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

The Professor has been experimenting with a number of different fin configurations lately.  About a year ago he hit on this "machete" style fin.  Narrow hips and a broad blade, he imagined a more responsive pivot and freer turns.  He also imagined that it wouldn't hold up long, so he kept another fin in the car, just in case.  Sunday at Torrance he was kicking out of a 2 footer and almost took it all the way around.  He pulled the board out of the water and he had two pieces hanging on by a couple of threads. 

Overcast this morning breaking into a partly sunny afternoon, adding up to an okay day for the beach.  Winds were calm at checkout and the water was smooth, but it came up quick and there was a light chop by 10am.  The air temp was 65.1° and the water was trying at 65.8°.  High tide was late at 11:08am +4.9' and low tide was at 4:50pm +1.4'.  The buoy had us at 2.6' on a SSW swell out of 196°.  Even with the high tide we had some rideable waves from 2' to 3' and the sun made it all the better...

Danger Boy, true to his name, on Sunday, hit the water and then hit his surfboard.  On an aborted kickout he whacked the rail leaving a healthy snackle and a bit of fiberglass hanging off.  Although he didn't quite know how it happened, he imagined if he had done that much damage to his board, he might have received a similar divot on his shin.  That kind of analytical thinking paid off and when he checked, he discovered a flap of recently unattached skin about an inch long and an inch wide, just dangling there.  Yes, it was bleeding, thank you!  We don't know how it all turned out, but we'll find out...

 

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!