A Really Moist Monday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

Saturday was a rainy, not very good day for surf.  Kinda wild and woolly and the tides and wind broke it all up.  But Sunday!  Everything came together and it was one of the best mornings in recent memory.  The surf was overhead at most locations and the wind stayed off all morning.  Later in the am we headed down to Burnout and watched some shortboarders get some great tubes.  So we got out our camera and took a couple of shots.  There are a couple of things that made us wonder about photo #1.  First, how did the kid in the foreground get stuck in the sand like that?  Did he ever get out?  The sign said he shouldn't have entered - so he's in trouble.  Then there's the guy on this rather ledgy left, getting ready to get covered up.  Maybe the sign is warning him not to enter?  Well, he entered and then didn't come out the other end.  We considered him warned.  Lesson:  Surfers can not read "Do Not Enter" signs.

Not so good today as yesterday with cloudy gray skies and typically less than 2 miles visibility.  Winds remain strong offshore by 6.6kts and the sea surface is smooth with a bit of reverse ripplation.  Thew air temperature at checkout was 53.3° and the water has dropped slightly to 57.9°.  High tide was high enough to almost get to the bike path at 8:41am +6.4' and low tide will rock the minus at 3:37pm -1.2'.  The buoy shows a strong west swell out of 265° at 5.2' and it's smacking the local beaches at 5' to 7'.  The tide is the most important factor this morning (if you don't mind the incessant rain and the bacteria.)  Check it throughout the day and see if your secret spot is working!

Photo #2 shows this young feller getting ready to shake the white water free and get covered up in a rather nice tubular excrescence... (Excrescence may not be the right word, but it's the best word...)
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

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