No Working During Drinking Hours Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...

The swell has been picking up all morning.  At 7:30 it was 5.9', 9am it was 7'2", 10:30am it was 8'9" and at 11am it was 9.8'.  We stopped a little south of Avenue I to watch this wave (#'s 1 & 2) come surging through.  A good 10' to 12' face, it spit a little like Pipe or Puerto and then closed out inside...  The hill was going crazy...

Hazy winter sun and 10 miles visibility with light offshores at 2.1kts, turning early.  The sea surface was smooth and the air temperature was 48.6.  The sea temperature is holding steady at 60.8 and hasn't seemed to be affected by the series of fronts that have come through.  High tide at 10:16am +5.2' and low tide will be at 5:35pm -0.1'.  At checkout/go-out it was 5.9' coming out of the west 262º and it was 4' to 10' at that time...  Tomorrow promises to feature some searching for spots that will: A. Hold the swell and B. Have some shape...

A nice shot of Jah Morgan (#3) slicing some white water on the way to the corner.  This really gives a good perspective of her grace and poise.  You can see how light she is on her feet, yet in perfect control. She's a mainstay of the Barahona Team and has been scoring in all of the major contests over the last couple of years...  Always fun to be in the water with her...

Then there's these two guys (#4).  So you think you love surfing, what about these gentlemen?  (Note:  it took an hour before his hand unfroze from the shaka.)  Where were they?  How long were they out?  Who are those guys?

Happy hour at El Torito on the Redondo Beach Pier.  5:30 in or near the bar.  Maybe we'll be able to see the surf from there?
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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