Topsy-Turvy Thursday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...

Before the wind came up yesterday, the dark clouds were right on the deck (#1) creating this study in grays and tan...

Wind and rain on tap for most of the day.  Winds up to almost 20kts and the sea surface is rough and blown out.  The air temp is 59.9 and remarkably the water is holding at 60.8.  High tide at 5:40am +5.7' and low tide follows at 1:01pm -0.3'.  We have a west swell out of 260º at 4.9' and that will be building to over 7' during the evening.  It was 4' to 6' today and you had to be mindful of the conditions...

If you're clever you can always find a place to catch a few waves even if the wind is howling out of the south (#2).  Some might argue, especially, if it's coming out of the south...

The flag at Sapphire (#3) was snapping double-time in the freshening breeze.  The NWS registered the velocity at 19.2kts, enough for some nice white caps...

We're supposed to be getting some big waves mañana, but we're betting they're not going to be quite as gnarly as this monster (#4) from a year ago at Nazaré, Portugal. There's a great poem that goes with it by Jo Castro:

    Exactly one year ago today this man
    surfed a wave at Praia do Norté, Nazaré.
    A very special one.
    A wave that is not like any other big waves
    in Nazaré.

    Or in the world.

    Not many have seen it.

    This wave has a name.

    And tons of temperament.
    Power.  And anger.
    Roughness.
    And Beauty.

    It has a timing.
    And a journey..

    Somehow this wave's journey
    met the man's.
    And the man was waiting.
    For 7 years, he was waiting..

    And he was ready..

    On a gnarly afternoon of 17th January
    2018, they met.
    And spoke sea language

    The wave let him live.
    And become the wave of his life.
    @hugovau.

    Big Mamma has her story by right.
    She will not let herself be measured.
    Or compared.
    Or forgotten
    .
    .    
    .
(We bet that it is probably more lyrical in the original Portuguese, but it's still powerful and
  evocative in any language!)
✠

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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