Take Off Your Training Wheels Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

Okay, some big waves last week - everywhere but here.  One of the places that got some mackers was Mavericks.  We have no idea who is on the right, but on the left is Todd Tisue.  We were wondering if O'Neill makes wetsuits with more room for cojones for places like this? 

After the wind blew most of the night, last night, we awoke to clear skies and 25 miles visibility.  Winds had turned offshore and were variable to 7.1kts.  With all that cold air coming down from the north it was 49.6° at checkout and the water was 62.2°.  Now that's only down 2° from yesterday, but it seemed like 5°.  High tide was at 10:14am +6.1' and it looks like it might break all the way through.  Low tide is at 5:48pm -0.3', opening things up for some afternoon action.  The 46221 Buoy is reading a west swell out of 276° at 3.9' and it must be hitting us pretty square, since it was 3' to 4' with some solid 5' outsiders.  Maybe we'll get a couple of good days out of this swell before we get some more weather...

"There were these cones as far as we could see, all the way to the crest of the hill.  There was a cave and some smaller declivities where we camped for the night.  The locals told us later that they had never heard of anyone spending the night there.  We asked them if it was because they thought it was haunted.  They said, "No, it just looked so damned uncomfortable.""
From Travels to the Malpees.
 
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!


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